Saranda and the riviera villages most visitors skip

What if the best part of Saranda starts where the seafront walk ends? Most people come for a few days of sun, walk the same few streets by the water, and leave without ever looking past the next bay. Up on the hill behind the town there's an old monastery with a view that few visitors bother to climb for. And up the coast, a short bus ride away, there are stone villages, quiet castles and one of the longest beaches in Albania. Here's how to see that side of Saranda.

Why Saranda feels different once the summer rush is over

At the end of October the town finally slows down. The days are still warm and sunny, the sea is calm, and on a good afternoon you'll still see people going in for a quick swim. The big groups are gone, so the hill paths and the coast villages feel like they belong to you. Just know that many beach bars and some small hotels on the coast close after the summer, so carry water and a snack on day trips.

Getting here is easy. Our buses leave Gjirokastra for Saranda 3 times a day for the 50 km ride down to the sea, and there are buses from Tirana all through the day as well. You'll find every bus to and from the town on our Saranda page.

Your first morning: climb to the saints who gave the town its name

The Monastery of the 40 Saints

Start early and walk up to the ruins of the Monastery of the 40 Saints, on the hill east of the centre. It takes about 45 minutes, mostly on a paved road, and there's very little shade, so go before the sun gets strong and take water with you. The monastery was built in the 6th century, and the town still carries its name: in Greek, "Agioi Saranta" means "forty saints", which slowly became Saranda. It was badly damaged in the Second World War and later used by the army, so what you'll find today are broken walls and arches. But the view over the whole bay is worth every step, and you'll often be the only one up there.

Lëkurësi Castle, but at the right hour

Lëkurësi Castle sits on the same hill, so you could do both in one go. A better idea: keep the castle for later and come back up for the sunset. In the middle of the day the light is flat and the terrace is busy. At sunset the bay turns gold and the lights of the town come on one by one below you.

Up the coast: three stops on one bus line

North of Saranda the road follows the coast past small villages and olive groves. Our buses run along it every day, leaving town in the morning and coming back in the afternoon, so each village makes an easy day trip. Pick one village per day instead of trying to see everything at once, book the ride the evening before, and keep the tickets in Apple Wallet, so they're ready even where the signal on the coast road comes and goes.

Borsh: a whole beach to yourself

Our buses go from Saranda to Borsh 3 times a day, about 37 km up the coast. Borsh beach is one of the longest in Albania, and once the summer crowds have gone home you can walk it from end to end and barely meet anyone. Behind the village, on the hill, are the ruins of Borsh Castle, with an old mosque still standing inside its walls. The path up goes through olive trees, and from the top you see the beach stretch out below you like a long white line.

Upper Qeparo: the stone village on the mountain

Just a little further north, Qeparo is about 39 km from Saranda, and our buses stop there 3 times a day. Most people only see the beach below. The real surprise is Upper Qeparo, the old village high on the mountain. A small road climbs about 2.5 km through olive groves, around 45 minutes on foot, to a village of stone houses where only a few families still live. At the far end of the village, a short path of about 200 metres through more olive trees leads to the ruins of Karos Fortress. On a clear day you can see all the way to Corfu.

Himara: an old town on the hill

Our buses also go from Saranda to Himara several times a day, about 52 km away. Skip the new town by the sea at first and walk up to old Himara, the village around the castle on the hill, with narrow stone streets and wide views over the bay. Then come down for a late lunch by Spile beach. Getting back is easy: buses from Himara to Saranda leave 6 times a day.

Evenings in Saranda: slow down like the locals

Back in town, don't rush dinner. Locals eat late, after the evening walk along the water, and the town is at its nicest when the shops light up and families come out. Ask for the fish of the day rather than reading the whole menu, and order the mussels: they come from the lagoon just south of town, so they're as fresh as it gets.

FAQs

Is Saranda worth visiting in October?

Yes. The days are still warm, the town is calm, and the hills and villages are much nicer to walk without the summer heat and crowds.

Can I still swim in Saranda in October?

On sunny days many people still do, especially in the afternoon. The water is cooler than in summer, so it's more of a quick swim than a long beach day.

Can I visit the riviera villages without a car?

Yes. Our buses go from Saranda to Borsh, Qeparo and Himara every day, leaving in the morning and coming back in the afternoon.

How hard is the walk to Upper Qeparo?

It's about 2.5 km uphill on a small road, around 45 minutes. It's steady, not difficult, but wear good shoes and bring water.

Is everything open after the summer?

Saranda itself stays open all year. On the coast, many beach bars and some small hotels close after the summer, so plan your lunch and carry water.

Do I need a printed bus ticket?

No. Our tickets are digital, and on an iPhone you can keep them in Apple Wallet, so they're always at hand.

Stay connected

Now you know where to go, what to eat and what to skip. But what happens when you need a map, the next bus or a quick call home? Our eSIM for Albania keeps you online from day one, so you never have to search for Wi-Fi. Since you read this far, you get a little extra: type BLOG10 when you buy it. Which place will you visit first?